48 Hours in Buffalo

Buffalo’s downtown area is relatively compact, good news for the first-time visitor. Get your bearings with an eagle’s eye view of the city: Step into our majestic Art Deco City Hall (65 Niagara Square), more impressive than most state capitol buildings, and take the elevator to the observation deck. Buffalo’s city fathers laid out our streets in the pattern of the spokes of a wheel. It’s stunning to see them stretching into the distance. Oh, and that’s Canada just across the Niagara River. 

A few blocks away, you’ll find a couple of extraordinary architectural gems. One is the Guaranty Building (140 Pearl St.), designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s mentor Louis Sullivan. If you are here during business hours, you are invited to step inside to visit the Interpretive Center. It offers visitors and scholars an introduction to this pioneering terra cotta high-rise, one of the first modern skyscrapers. 

Not far away is the Ellicott Square Building (295 Main St.), which when it was built was the largest office building in the world. The ornate Ellicott Square Building played the role of the New York Times in the movie “Cabrini.” The inner atrium is open to the public – give those mighty revolving doors a big push, and walk on in. Make sure you look down as well as up, to see the intricate mosaic floor. (Please note: The swastikas date from long before the Nazis took hold of this ancient symbol.) In December, this glorious interior with its sweeping staircases plays host to a magnificent Christmas tree. And all year-round, it plays host to Charlie the Butcher, a beloved purveyor of beef on weck, which ranks with chicken wings as a signature Buffalo delicacy. The New England clam chowder, served on Fridays, is also delicious.

One more architectural masterpiece you can walk into: the 21-story headquarters of M&T Bank at One M&T Plaza. M&T Bank is based in Buffalo, and this 1967 office building was designed by Minoru Yamasaki, who also designed New York’s original World Trade Center Towers. The soaring, light-filled indoor space can make you catch your breath.

Insider Tip

Every Thursday from June to August, stop down to Thursday & Main from 5-8 p.m. for free live music and outdoor happy hour.

Come 5 p.m., celebrate Happy Hour in the downtown Hyatt Regency Buffalo. The glass atrium, open to all, gives Buffalo a taste of summer year-round, and from 5 to 8 p.m. on Fridays, pianist Howard Goldman plays and sings the Great American Songbook. Full disclosure: he is my husband, and I will likely be there, in case you want to discuss any of the advice I am giving you. Sit at the bar or join the group around the piano. It is practically guaranteed you will meet Buffalonians who will be free with their advice on what to see around town. The lobby’s floor-to-ceiling glass windows offer up-close views of two more beautiful architectural treasures. One is the ornate Buffalo Savings Bank (now M&T Center). Its golden dome has been a symbol of Buffalo for over 120 years. The other is the circa 1912 Electric Tower, which resembles a tall fanciful wedding cake and is the site of Buffalo’s New Year’s Eve ball drop. 
 

When you get hungry, head down Franklin Street to Allentown, the city’s oldest neighborhood and one of the largest preservation districts in the country. It's a quick drive, or a pleasant walk. Admire the lovely old houses along the way. When you pass Edward Street, look right to see St. Louis Church, which boasts the tallest lace steeple in North America. 

Insider Tip

Gabriel's Gate is one of 14 locations on the Buffalo Wing Trail - a curated list of the most unique places to order a plate of Buffalo's signature dish.

On Allen Street, you will find the funky restaurant Gabriel’s Gate (145 Allen St.), easily identified by the arty angel statue in front of it. Gabriel’s Gate has been known for decades for its delicious chicken wings, its fish fry and sandwiches named for neighborhood streets. Try the Cottage Street (you can thank me later). If the weather is nice, you might want to dine on the hidden outdoor patio in the back. 

Buffalo keeps later hours than most other cities, with many nightspots remaining open until 4 a.m. last call. For a taste of Buffalo’s live music there are three nearby options – Days Park Tavern (252 Allen St.); Nietzsche’s (248 Allen St.); and, around the corner, Pausa Art House (19 Wadsworth St.), which features jazz and world music. Stop and take a selfie at the iconic mural on the side of Nietzsche’s, featuring the philosopher’s immortal line: “Without music life would be a mistake.”

Just for fun, take a few steps farther down Wadsworth Street and you will find yourself at Symphony Circle, face-to-face with Kleinhans Music Hall. It’s hard to believe it dates to 1940, because its architecture – by Elio and Eero Saarinen, a famous Finnish father-and-son team – still looks bold and modern. Kleinhans’ sleek modernity is set off perfectly by its next-door neighbor, First Presbyterian Church (One Symphony Circle). Grab a photo of one of Buffalo’s classic urban vistas -- the image of the First Presbyterian tower in the Kleinhans reflecting pool.

Heading back toward downtown, consider a nightcap or a tasty snack at tiny, charming Founding Fathers Pub (75 Edward St). Founded and owned by former history teacher Mike Driscoll (whom you might well find behind the bar), this unique tavern, located in an 1800s livery stable, brims with presidential memorabilia. Though it has been featured on national TV, it remains one of Buffalo’s better-kept secrets. Ask your bartender for a trivia question with your drink. At the bar, the conversation flows as freely as the ale. 

Savor coffee and breakfast at Betty’s (370 Virginia St.), a cute place loved by locals. Indoors or at an outdoor table, you’ll enjoy the Allentown views, as well as the creative menu offerings, including ten different kinds of toast. Breakfast options include biscuits and gravy with chorizo sausage and New Orleans style shrimp and grits. Betty’s exhibits the work of local artists with rotating shows, adding another dimension to your morning meal.

Properly fortified, you will want to head to the Buffalo AKG Art Museum (1285 Elmwood Ave.) Take a moment to take in the serene Classical exterior, with its gracious columns, rising like a dream over the vast Great Lawn. The newly opened Jeffrey E. Gundlach Building is bright and brimming with bracing, cutting-edge modern art. 

Long known as the Albright-Knox Art Gallery, the museum was closed for expansion in 2021 and reopened in June 2023 as the AKG, to honor the contributions of Gundlach, a billionaire with roots in Buffalo. AKG T-shirts claim the museum has been “contemporary since 1862” and it’s not an idle boast. Its collection includes every “ism” since the latter half of the 19th century, with each trend and bend in art represented by masterpieces that any museum around the world would love to have. Yes, it’s really that good.

If you are a real art fiend, head across the street to the Burchfield Penney Art Center (1300 Elmwood Ave.), named for the great American artist Charles Burchfield, who lived in Buffalo and loved painting the local landscape. The gallery features Burchfield’s work as well as the work of contemporary artists from throughout Western New York and rotating exhibits.

Lunch today is easy: Cornelia, the AKG’s “fast-casual dining” restaurant, has an elegant twist on our beef on weck, if you haven’t gotten to taste one already. It has Gorgonzola horseradish cream, caramelized onions, and arugula. A Cheese and Charcuterie Plate offers you a taste of local meats and cheeses. At the Burchfield Penney, Roux Soup Bar & Cafe has a well-earned reputation for its soups. Selections include Spicy African Peanut Soup, Thai Chicken Noodle, and Farrow Island Salmon Chowder. Can’t decide? Order “Duet of Soups” or “Holy Trinity Combo.” Admission to the Burchfield-Penney is not required to visit the restaurant.

Work off your lunch with a walk in the nearby neighborhood. Head down Elmwood Avenue to walk and gawk among the locally owned bars, shops, and restaurants. If you’re interested in another of Buffalo’s architectural treasures turn right on Forest Avenue to glimpse the Richardson Olmsted Campus, a former asylum designed by Henry Hobson Richardson, with grounds designed by Frederick Law Olmsted. A portion of the massive complex has been restored and found new life as the Richardson Hotel.

Insider Tip

Did you spot an oversized pink flamingo paddle boat in Hoyt Lake? $15 will get you a 30-minute rental.

Or head to the Lincoln Parkway side of the AKG and take a walk around Delaware Park’s lovely Hoyt Lake. Here, you’ll find a beautiful rose garden, Shakespeare Hill, the site of the second-longest running free Shakespeare series in the country, as well as the Terrace Restaurant and Rumsey Woods, the most natural portion of Olmsted’s Buffalo parks system. Adjacent to Delaware Park is Forest Lawn Cemetery, a magnificent cemetery full of grand Victorian funeral art. Notable residents include U.S. president Millard Fillmore and rock-funk legend Rick James. See what bottles and mementoes have been left on Rick James’ grave. 
 

As evening approaches, head north to Buffalo’s Black Rock neighborhood for dinner and more music. Your primary destination: Sportsmen’s Tavern (326 Amherst St.). You’ll find music at this urban roadhouse every night of the week, and many afternoons, too. Unless it’s a renowned touring band, admission is rarely over $10. Americana, blues, bluegrass, and country are the staples of Sportsmen’s musical diet. Texas legend Dale Watson dubbed this place “the honkiest tonkiest beer joint in town.” Step in the front door and you’ll see why.

Eat pub grub at the Sportsmen’s – the Sportsmen’s Burger comes with bacon as well as the special Sportsmen’s sauce. Or have dinner at one of the neighboring restaurants along Amherst Street. Go upscale with Waxlight Bar a Vin (27 Chandler St.), the Phoenix at 269 (269 Amherst St.), or the Dapper Goose (491 Amherst St.) – or go blue collar at Hot Mama’s Canteen (12 Military Road at the corner of Amherst Street) or Casey’s Black Rock (484 Amherst St.), the kind of time-honored corner bars that now are rare treasures. If you need caffeine, grab some hot strong Yemeni coffee at Raha, at the corner of Amherst and Grant Street across from the Polish Cadets. 
 

Get your day off to a delicious start with coffee and a quick bite at Public Espresso Cafe in the lovely Hotel at the Lafayette (391 Washington St.) Architect Louise Blanchard Bethune designed this gem for Buffalo’s 1901 Pan-American Exposition. Public Espresso Cafe is informally run – you order at the counter, then dine in. Try the Avocado Toast or Loaded Avocado Toast. The Redeye Breakfast Sandwich – coffee-glazed ham, scrambled egg, and gruyere on an English muffin is a particularly hearty offering. Best of all, they sling hash here. Not just corned beef hash, but Andouille Hash. That should set you up for your day ahead.

If you’d like to see Niagara Falls, here’s your chance. The Falls is only a 20-minute drive away. It’s one of the Wonders of the World, and something everyone should see at least once. The Maid of the Mist boat ride takes you to the base of the falls, and it’s a kick – people from around the world lurching and screaming as the falls grow closer and the mist cascades around you. The Cave of the Winds, with an admission of around $20, is a bargain – an elevator takes you right up to the bottom of the gorge for an up-close view of the Bridal Veil Falls. Tchaikovsky did the Cave of the Winds in the 1890s and called it “interesting, if somewhat terrifying.”

Back in Buffalo, head south to Lackawanna to Our Lady of Victory Basilica (767 Ridge Road, at the corner of South Park Boulevard). This massive church features between 1,500 and 2.500 angels. Life-sized marble angels offer you holy water. Solid copper angels, each 18 feet tall, sound the trumpets from the gigantic central dome, which at the time it was built was second in size only to the U.S. Capitol. Visitors of all faiths are welcome, and admission is free. 

Kitty-corner from the basilica is the gorgeous Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens. This magnificent conservatory was designed by the famous greenhouse architects Lord and Burnham. They modeled it after London’s legendary Crystal Palace. Like the Basilica, it features a breathtaking central dome. To stand under that dome, admiring and inhaling the aromas of flowers, plants, and palm trees – it’s a bit of paradise.  

For a final dinner in Buffalo stop at the Pearl Street Grill and Brewery (76 Pearl St.). This restaurant is located in a huge building dating to the colorful days of the Erie Canal. With three stories – as well as New Orleans-style wraparound balconies – the place is so big that you can always get a table. Try a time-honored beer, perhaps a Lake Effect, or a Trainwreck. As far as food goes, the Beer and Cheese Soup is a time-honored specialty, and so is the Beer Braised Pot Roast. Take time out to study, in a side room, the astonishingly detailed mural by the late local artist Robert Averill, a master of maritime painting.  

Whew! How’s that for a jam-packed weekend? And we didn’t even have time for Frank Lloyd Wright’s Martin House, Shea’s Buffalo Theatre, or a walk around Buffalo’s reinvigorated waterfront at Canalside. Time to start planning your return trip. We’ll have your wings ready.